September 26 - Erie, PA

Odometer - 27379.0

After a great visit with my brother/uncle, we departed Ottawa at 7 AM, and headed south for Niagara Falls. With the early start, the traffic was light. Trees are turning color, but not at their best. Large farms off the highway, but still little traffic for most of the way. Reached and parked at Niagara Falls at 2:30 PM, still lots of tour busses and fairly large crowds. Flowers were beautiful, rode the Maid of the Mist and did the caves under the falls. Departed about 6:30 PM and crossed the Rainbow Bridge to Buffalo, with barely a look from customs. Got on the interstate and headed west following the Lake Ontario lakeshore to Erie. As night fell, we had a great light show from a thunderstorm in the distance, with a little wind and rain, but fairly calm now.

September 22 to 24 - Halifax, NS; Fredericton, NB and Ottawa, ON

Odometer - 62750

The time has dome that we must start our journey back west, so together again we departed Halifax on Thursday morning, leaving fond memories and a great reunion behind. We had replaced the muffler on arrival in Halifax- so were departing with far less noise than when we arrived ( a 2" by 4" hole does not a quiet vehicle make). Of course since the van had sat for a week, she needed a little incentive (a push) to get going. Margie was laughing hysterically as she rushed to get her camera. We are hoping she didn't catch us in the act. We headed west on the Trans-Canada, until a sign from Pugwash about pewter caught her eye, and after crossing to New Brunswick, we went to Hopewell Rocks, in the Bay of Fundy. The rock formations are along the shore in New Brunswick. We backtracked to Moncton and drove across to Fredericton arriving at Duane's (brother/uncle) house. He had dinner ready and waiting for our arrival.

Friday we went and visited Aunt Lottie, who is in a nursing home in MacAdam and is 103, we stopping at the Don Messer fiddle in Harvey Station and at a knitting/ yarn mill and on the way. The sun shone on us all day. We ended the day with a dinner in one of Fredericton's newest hamburger joints, Relish.

Saturday it was raining, but we headed to the Farmer's Market anyway. And, so apparently did everyone else from Fredericton. A beautiful choice of fruits, vegetables, jams, jellies and handicrafts. Got in the van with the objective of making it most of the way to Ottawa. As we he proceeded across NB, the rain came and went. We could not have order a better trip for seeing the fall leaves. Unbelievably, we passed through Quebec quickly and being in Ontario we called Garnet, who said- keep driving, you're almost here. the leaves on the Quebec side have not reached their fall color as yet.

Again we enjoyed a soak in the hot tub at my brother Garnet's in Ottawa. Today we enjoyed a quiet day chatting, and visit from family members. We also had a look at the map and discussed the westward route back. We start tomorrow by heading to Niagara Falls.

September 20 - Halifax, NL and Magog, PQ

Odometer - no change!

We arrived in Dartmouth for the reunion on Thursday, staying with Lida's friend Margie Bingly. That afternoon, we were able to pick up a new muffler for the van, and friend Jean Filla from the airport. Friday, the ladies shared a lunch and headed to Halifax itself for the reunion. While it wasn't supposed to start until 7 with a reception, they started early in the lobby as they were all checking in to the hotel.

Once the reunion started, there has been no time to write as they were all too busy reminiscing and Andrea headed off to her conference at 6AM on Sunday morning, in Magog, PQ, and is scheduled to fly back on Wednesday evening, to continue the journey on Thursday....that is assuming that her Air Canada flight actually takes off!

September 13 - Port-aux-Basque, NL

Odometer - 25544.0

Woke up this morning to gun shots and sunshine. We hope they got a moose. We decided since it was such a nice day, not having far to travel today, we should do some housekeeping. Laundry is $3 a load, at ten we started westward (actually south) on the TCH - the Gilly mountains on our right (hills covered with trees). The scenery is not as spectacular as the rest we've seen on this island. Arriving in Port-aux-Basque early, we drove the most southerly road to the end of the line at Rose Blanche - The road was only completed in 1965. Enjoyed visiting the lighthouse, the only Canadian lighthouse built of granite, first in the 1870's and rebuilt in 1996 from the same quarry. Remained a beautiful, sunny, warm day. Checked out the town of Port-aux-Basque, a small hilly town which seems to revolve around trucking and the ferry terminal. At 6 PM hit the ferry staging area and got in line to await our ferry ride to North Sydney - a nice, new ferry and good beds. Tomorrow we head towards Halifax.

September 12 - River Brook, NL

Odometer - 25430.2

About 7c this AM, so had breakfast out, and went around Corner Brook, which has a big pulp and paper mill with stacks and stacks of timber. Followed route 450 down past Blow-Me-Down Provincial Park to Bottle Cove. It was windy enough to blow me down. Great elevation differences along the route - cliffs at one point, sea level at another. Lots of fishing boats, nets and lobster traps.

On down the TCH to the Port-au-Port peninsula, again a windy, winding road. More houses and people on the peninsula than we expected, with a huge limestone quarry and direct to boat loading over a cliff. Dramatic waves hitting the rock cliffs with the wind. Back to the TCH again where we ran into a lot of bridge construction. Down the road at River Brook we pulled into a little campsite with the moose hunters. So far we haven't seen a moose come back. Of course they invited us to a campfire tonight, but we have bedded down in our little yellow machine.

September 11 - Corner Brook, NL

Odometer - 25180.1

Beautiful scenic overlook of Trout River Lake, and went to a cookhouse shelter and did breakfast. The Gros Morne Park ranger stopped by and told us that a park interpreter would be leading a hike. We packed up quickly and made it to the trailhead just as he was starting to give his talk on rocks and flora. He explained how the earth's mantle moved causing one side of the mountains in the valley to be red, and the other grey-green. opined out small flowers growing among all the rocks. Hike ended at a small waterfall coming down from the flat land of the Tablelands.

Leaving there, we stopped at the Discovery Center and learned more about Gros Morne being a UNESCO site. Left the park about 4 PM and took the TCH to Corner Brook, and since it was late, misty and windy we spoiled ourselves with a motel for the night.

September 10 - Trout River, NL

Odometer - 25091.2

Departed St. Anthony in overcast, misty 9oC weather, and headed on the final part of our tour down the west side of Newfoundland. Moose season opened, lots of hunters out and several had already gotten their moose. They cleaned them beside the road. At Port aux Choix, we pulled in and saw the lighthouse. Quite barren, and we visited their museum - it is an archeological site for several different peoples. They were already closing the place down for the season, and it was still windy and overcast. just down the road, we spotted folks looking in a field- looked over and were treated to the sight of a small herd of caribou. The road is along the shore, with the Gulf of St. Lawrence on the west- not the dramatic cliffs of eastern Newfoundland.

Further down the road, we pulled into The Arches Provincial Park, where waves eroded sandstone from around bedrock, creating a series of about 4 arches. There were also a lot of the tuckamore trees- pines which are growing close to the ground and bent due to the wind. Not too far beyond the provincial park was Lobster Cove Lighthouse - part of Gros Morne National Park. It had lots of photos of people who lived in the area from 1900 to 1970's. The light house is still operational, so not permitted upstairs. Several good hiking trails in the area and great views of the bay. Went around the bay to the south side of the park, and drove to the far end of the road, which is the Trout River campground. The temperature is supposed to drop, so tonight we built a campfire and toasted marshmallows. Clear sky, bright full moon with the Tablelands rock formation in the distance. Snuggled up in our down sleeping bags - will let you know how cold it got in the morning.

September 9 - St. Anthony, NL

Odometer - 24780.1

After our breakfast at the B&B, laundry and the grocery store, we went to Fisherman's Point in St. Anthony, where another lighthouse and a small iceberg were located. Andrea climbed 474 steps up to a cliff viewpoint, and spotted a second iceberg. On our way back through town, we stopped at Grenfell's museum, and across the street, viewed murals done in the rotunda of the local hospital. They were completed in 1968 and are a series of hand-done tile, depicting the Newfoundland people and landscape. Really well done, the artist was a Spanish potter.

Headed from there's to the northerly point of L'Anse aux Meadows, the UNESCO site where the Vikings landed and lived for less than a decade, where the original site is in the condition as found, while a second adjacent site has a re-built house and costumed interpreters depicting life in the site 1000 years ago. It covers a large reserve and we watched 2 bull and one cow moose feeding in the area. A French cruise ship anchored in the local bay, quite a different ship than we are used to seeing on these shores.

Following this, we checked out Pistolet Bay Provincial Park, and Ship's Cove - another iceberg in the distance. Lots of wood stacks, chopping and stacking of wood for the winter. Several roadside gardens growing potatoes and cabbage all fenced in. They're next to the road as the road crews clear the land! Pulled in for the night, and it started to rain/mist. Starting our drive back down the west coast tomorrow, where we will now stop and see the sights. The land up here is more wind-swept than elsewhere.

September 8 - St. Anthony, NL

Odometer -24660

Sorry we are behind, but we have Wi-Fi tonight, so are playing catch-up. We left Bonavista on Tuesday morning, and headed for Elliston, a small fishing village where we had been told we would be able to see more puffins, and assorted birds. It was true- only about a kilometer's walk, but a spectacular view of cliffs, the North Atlantic, and the birds. Afterwards, We headed for the Trans-Canada Highway (TCH) and Gander. Hit our first full day of rain as we we going south - and did it rain. So, we decided on a dinner theater, and oil change in the AM.

Theater was a series of skits based on a recurring Gander character and the meal was entirely Newfoundland fare. Hard rolls with molasses, fish and brewis, pea soup and blueberry grunt. Still raining.

Wednesday morning, had an appointment at a small recommended garage, and got our oil changed. As it had been 4000 miles, she was due. They told us we had a hole in the muffler, but that would just make her loud, not effect performance. Having travelled on so many back roads the TCH even though 2 lanes, is still highway driving and Mom says is an engineering marvel.

Leaving Gander, we headed on up to Twillingate, where we were told icebergs could be found. And, there they were, on both sides of the island, which we were easily able to see from the Long Point Lighthouse. We also visited the Auk Winery, where they use local berries and icebergs in making their wine. Leaving Twillingate, we headed for Grand Falls-Windsor, and viewed the salmon at the fish ladders, saw the falls and the electrical plant. Pulled in at Stony Brook for the night. The rain mostly stopped, but there was neither wi-Fi nor cell service at the location.

This morning we decided to head for the furthest point, and that way we can make our way slowly down the full west coast from St Anthony to Port aux Basque over the next week. Spent the day driving, stopping only to get gas and coffee with a brief stop on our way through Gros Morne National Park for information on the way back south. Windy, rainy, road very close to the shore all day long. Made it to St. Anthony about 5 PM, and are treating ourselves to a B&B. Had dinner out, a platter of all NL fish for- quite good, filling, and even partridgeberry pie for desert. The B&B has wi-fi so are catching up and charging batteries. Thanks for keeping up with our blog.

September 6 - Gander, NL

Odometer -24070.0

In Gander, went to a show so it is late. We will update post in am.

September 5 - Bonavista, NL

Odometer- 23877.3

Left From Pippy Park, the center of St. John's about 9 AM and headed northeast to the Bonavista peninsula. Stopped in Trinity, the site of an old Irish fishing village, with a beautiful cove, and current population of about 350. It also has the oldest standing wooden church, and many homes restored to their 1700's appearance- even some cows and goats.

Up and around inslets, we arrived at the town of Bonavista and continued to John Cabot's arrival in North America, dated 1497, and site of a currently operational lighthouse. On leaving, we stopped at Dungeon Provincial Park, where sea caves are forming from erosion by the sea of sandstone from around bedrock. We continued down the peninsula and are staying about 14 KM at a lovely campground on Bonavista Bay.

We drove on the Trans-Canada highway for about 100 KM, and that road is smooths and well maintained, unfortunately we are taking small roads into coves that are two lane and gravel.

We had fog and mist until about 11AM- worst fog we have seen in years- but it lifted and we had a sunny, but windy, afternoon. It actually got to 24oC today. We hear rain is on the way. The temp is dropping 10-15oC from day to night, and is dark at about 8 PM, so to bed early and up early- night!
(still no wi-fi so no pictures yet!)

September 4 - St. John's, NL

Odometer - 23666.8

Arose to a cooler day, and headed south back down the most easterly coast to Bulls Bay. We did a 2-hour boat tour from the bay to a group of 4 islands that make up the Witless Bay Ecological Reserve. There we watched puffins nesting, flying and diving for food. Big bodies, little wings and not very graceful in the air. Went a little further out to see and saw some Minke whales (the smallest of the baleen whale family). Some were sea sick, but not us. Returned to dry land, and subsequently stopped at a recommended store where they sold bottled moose meat (homestyle), stewed rabbit and seal meat. You could also get flipper pie take-out. We did not partake. We have found grocery stores well stoked and prices comparable.

Returning to St. John's we stopped at "The Rooms" museum/art gallery, which was built in 2005, and spent about two hours. We both liked the black and white photos of the first nation's people taken in 1959. The Rooms is on a hill facing the harbor so there are spectacular views. Returning to the campsite, Pippy Park, we walked around the lake which is behind Memorial University. Tomorrow we head to the Bonavista Peninsula, the tip of which is where John Cabot first landed. We hope to see our first icebergs.

September 3 - St. John's, NL

Odometer - 23622.8 (van didn't move)

Rose early to an un-forecasted sunny day. Decided to see the city of St. John's by foot. Took the local bus to the corner of Military and King's Bridge, the closest bus stop to Signal Hill. Found a great coffee shop and the smell drew us in. walked up, up, up Signal Hill road, which first led to the Johnson Geo Center, up, up, up again to Signal Hill National Historic site, 183 m above the harbor. Cabot Tower at the top was built for Queen Victoria's diamond jubilee, and where Marconi received the first trans-Atlantic wireless message - the letter "S".

Shopped our way down Water Street, and back up the hill to the Basilica of St. John the Baptist. We went to The Rooms- the provincial gallery, museum and archives, but decided to leave it until Monday as it was closing, and we would have less than the recommended time to view the exhibits and didn't want to rush. Bus back to Pippy Park, a large park donated to the city to integrate the city with nature where the van was located for the day. All mileage was by foot.

Tomorrow, puffins!

September 2 - St. John's, NL

Odometer - 23622.8

Started early, and drove to Cape St. Mary's ecological center- fortunately it was open when we got there. A little foggy, but we walked 1.4km to cliffside viewing point for Bird Rock. This time of year, the only birds left are gannets, but there were 24000 of them. We watched for a while and hiked back to the center. They have an excellent exhibit set in the center on the birds of the region. We continued around the Avalon peninsula, the center of which is a reserve, where caribou can be spotted (but we didn't). We then went by Trepassey, Amelia Earhart's departure point on her trans-atlantic flight, and visiting the Mistaken Point Ecological Reserve/Cape Race information center.

At Witless Bay, we decided to try our luck at Pippy Point, the campground that is in the center of St. John's. We are lucky to spend the labour day weekend here and we will be visiting the Witless Point Ecological Reserve before we leave, but tomorrow we are going to walk the streets of St. John's. We are taking the local metro into town and have our walking schedule planned.

It is cool, and getting dark much earlier. We may need a brake job by the time we leave Newfoundland.

(photos tomorrow when the wireless will be working, so we've been told)

September 1 - St. Brides, NL

Odometer-
23331

Arrived Argentia on schedule - calm seas all the way. Andrea upgraded us to a deluxe cabin, so we were well rested. We also treated ourselves to a fine brunch on the ship. We were among the first off the ship and we headed to Cape St. Mary's. The drive was spectacular- up and down hills, in and out of coves, with high stone cliffs. Lida was glad Andrea is driving. some of the most beautiful rugged scenery we have ever seen. We found a campground just before the turnoff to the cape. Parked for the night, did have a clear evening, but no services (including cell phone).