Florence, June 23

Slept in, which was unplanned, but the breakfast here goes til 10:30, so still had time ( though I wasn't that late!). Decided that the day would be spent seeing the outside and wandering the streets as still didn't feel I had my hours turned around.

Noting that I'm now seeing all the crowds that I missed in Switzerland - all seemed to be in the Piazza at once, in school groups, tour groups, and cruise ship groups (the photo is of the street, not the piazza). It was a good thing that there is a pedestrian zone, as I don't think that the cars would be able to get through.

Headed from the square in from of the Duomo, past the Plazzo Vecchio, by the Uffezi, over the Pont Vecchio and down to the Pitti Palace, and scoped out where and how to visit the different places.

Wandering around, located a grocery next to the bridge, so bought a 1.5L bottle of water, salami, apples, roll, yogurt and cheese. Good thing I got a 1.5L - I drained it before the end of the day.

Headed back to the hotel about 5, and slept the rest of the night. The hotel is about 10 min from the main center, which is nice to be able to take a break as it was hot! Another 40oC day.

 

Florence, June 21-22

Dropped off at the airport with time to spare - the nieces, Harley and Mom headed off to K-country. Checked in, dropped the bag and all looked like it was going well. By the time I. Got to the gate, there was a 45-minute delay as the flight in was late....

Since I had a decent amount of time for the plane change originally, I just had the wait before Toronto instead is after. In Toronto, it looked like there was a huge throng of people and the plane would packed. Instead, it was quite empty - first time in years that I had a whole row to myself. Slept until the plane landed in Frankfort. Headed through customs with the new passport, and to the gate just in time to catch the next flight. That one was to catch a bus and head out onto the tarmac - out to a line of planes where we all go to climb the stairs to the jet.

Landed in Florence with no issues, except I had misplaced the name of the hotel (I had the reservation number, but not the name!) so had to hook up to the net and find the email. Then had to wait 30 min as I had just missed the prior bus to downtown. Walked to the hotel, and checked in - room was exactly as pictured.

Even though it was still early, hit the sack as still tired from the time change.

 

Mürren, June 20

Today ended up being overcast and rainy from the start - so I decided to push going to the top of the mountain railway until tomorrow. The good news was that the gondola to the rail station was back up and running between Lauterbrunnen and Mürren- so thingswere faster heading down hill. I started in the town of Lauterbrunnen, walking up the valley. The first falls are just outside of the town, Staubbach Falls - there is a trail that takes you right up to the edge between valley and the rock wall - then stairs and a carved section that takes you right behind the falls. The wind made sure that any one heading up had to have rain gear or they were soaked. Good thing I had my jacket!

After heading back down, continued up the alley to Spishbach Falls - these are noted for a 1889 landslide which buried a farm and shifted their stream by 100 m, then to Buchenbach Falls. These ones were noted as the sometimes do give an ice falls in the winter, but also because apparently is has a good topography for base jumping - easy access because of the train access above, a knoll at the edge, yet still high enough for the chutes. Now a bit further up, and the opposite side of the stream - the large falls from the Eiger and Jungfrau.

Trümmelbach Falls, a series of 10 drops that has a huge catchment flowing through a narrow crevasse. They have dug a tunnel for an elevator that takes you 3/4 of the way up, with stairs andplatformnviewing along the way. I waited to the top before photos so all of my photos are in order of the 10 falls. Talk about natural air-conditioning - the water is cold, so as soon as you walk into the crevasse, it drops about 10 degrees with the moisture in the air. The last falls corkscrew due to the way the rock has been worn. Caught the bus back to Lauterbrunnen, along without about everyone else - no room left after everyone got on.

At Lauterbrunnen, I caught the train up the other Berner valley to Grindelwald. A much bigger town than I had expected, with a big hole right in the center of town where they are building a big new parking garage and shopping center. This town is not car free. The view of the glacier and high valley fields was nice- and got a bit of information about the valley as a UNESCO site. By this time, it had started to rain and really blow - hard enough resturants and businesses were picking up their plants and table cloths.

With that, I headed back to the Guesthouse in Mürren. The timing ended up being perfect to catch a double rainbow looking back down into the valley - the photo is only of the single variety as it came about better than the double one - but something good from the rain! Headed down for dinner - a great Swiss-style salad (butter lettuce, with white dressing, their cold spiced corn, beets, tuna salad, pickled cucumber), then chicken and mushrooms in sauce with Swiss hash browns, and then pot du crème and warm berry sauce for dessert. The choice of adding dinner I think was a good risk.

Tomorrow the last day with sight seeing, then heading back yo Zurich! Once I'm headed that way the cell connection should be strong enough to upload and add the photos.

 

Mürren, June 19

Left Zermatt on the 9:39 train. Knew it was time t to be getting up and going listening to all the kids run and play in the schoolyard before heading down to breakfast. Had no problems getting packed up, but then had the gentleman behind the desk running after me as I had left my Tilley sitting on the counter. Glad he did as I needed the hat today.

Chatted with a family from northern Minnesota who were all wearing packs, and spending a month in Europe, then had a mom with 2 little boys join me at my seat of four about half way down the valley - the oldest boy was about 3, and he chatted happily to either me or himself, I'm not sure- we both understood 'wasserfälle' and 'ein gleis, nein! Zwei gleis' - and smiles. He was chatting as his mom was busily disciplining the younger boy for putting his shoes on the seat and on her - she let him sulk on the floor, and as she had said something about his shoes, the first thing he did upon hitting the floor was to remove said shoes. All the adults sitting around got a big smile out of that one (but no comments were made to discourage the same behavior!).

I realized as I was headed on the train towards Spiez on Lake Thun, one of the two that bounds Interlaken that I could do as I did in Zurich - so I headed towards the ferry terminal, and doing so go to see a bit of that town - and another Schloss. It added about 1 hr to the trip, but well worth it to see something besides the train. The road constructed aong the shore was quite interesting to see.

 

In Interlaken, I headed towards the laundromat ( and yes Mom, I know when I emailed I meant to do this in Zermatt, but the place was closed until the 22nd, just like some of the other businesses).

Total of 1 CHF for soap, 6 CHF for the washer, and 3 CHF for the dryer. When I got there, a mom from Utah was doing their laundry - and had 4 suitcases of laundry they had been getting through, and she had the two big dryers going the whole time I was there.

They were a family of 5- and right as she had started getting the darks from one dryer, she found chocolate....one of her boys had put a breakfast packet of Nutella in his pocket. It made it though most of the cycle, but once the temperature hit the right level, the seal burst and got all over the cleaned clothes. I finished my drying as the mom was waiting for the load she had to put back in to finish from the washing machine.

Then headed to Interlaken Ost train station for the last bit up to Mürren, taking the 1.5 km route along the little river, the path labeled as the 'wanderweg'. Lots of people out sun bathing and putting their feet in the water - it was another warm, sunny afternoon. Got on the train, knowing I had to change in Lauterbrunner to take the last cog wheel train up - but when I tried to open the door after having taken the tunnel, the door wouldn't open.... Couldn't figure it out, until I went up the first track and walked over tot e door that you saw a sign "train out of order" luckily, as I had taken the PostAuto busses before, I recognized the one sitting there, and then took the bus up to Stechelberg, where the gondola was. Ended up on the opposite side of town from the train station and the hotel, but gave a nice walk.

Checked in to the room - the photo on the right is the view from the balcony attached to the room - took a quick break, and headed downstairs for dinner. This place offed a half-board if closed at the time of booking - and for what I've now paid elsewhere is actually a decent deal - I had lentil soup and bread, then roast beef with mashed potatoes and vegetables, and creme brûlée for dessert. Will head for the "Top of Europe" tomorrow!

Note - the blog is not liking the photos - I will try again after a stronger connection....

And I spoke too soon - I was finishing dinner just as I posted tis when the hotel manager stopped by the table an said the town was putting on a free "folksnight" - brass band, Swiss dancers, swiss yodlers, and Swiss horns.

 

 

Zermatt, June 18

Started the day with breakfast, then fooled the advice of the hotel clerk - do the Matterhorn Glacier paradise (Gondola) then do the Gornergot Railway. She recommended this as the railway runs longer. I'm glad I took her advice, as in the morning, as you can see it was blue skies. I wasn't the first one on the gondola, but was on the first large cable car up to the Klien Matterhorn, where it terminates. The viewing platform is a lift ride up from there (stairs still closed)

You go from the viewing platform, if you've paid for that ticket, to the Glacier part - you go a story don into the glacier where there is a natural fissure, as well as a bored out tunnel system - not warm, abut the result of people visiting and the moisture from their breath I found cool. They also spenttime carving. There is a panoramic window at another point to let you see an adjoining peak and glacier.

I then headed down, visiting two stops long the way for the views, walked back through town and headed up to the Gonnergot railway. Full trip up, and back, is not cheap, but the rail pass got me half price on this system. Ate lunch at the top, with a full 360oC view.

The clouds rolled through all afternoon, which is why I was glad for this scheduling, as the view from the opposite side would have been lost. Back down, where I had planned on a hike, but the only trail was closed. There is still a lot of snow.

Even with the number of people i've seen, the town is light on tourists - from the number of signs i've seen, their real summer dosen't begin until Saturday - as the big hotel next to the church stated in their posting.

 

 

 

I headed back and chilled on the roof terrace, where you can see the Matterhorn just through the clouds. Organized myself to head to Mürren tomorrow!

 

Zermatt, June 17

The Matterhorn!

Left Bellinzona right on time, heading back north up the same initial valley I took the bus in,mbut at the head of the valley, he train took the north-western route. Pretty views, few people on the train, an an enjotable ride. First exchange in Göttenshen went exactly as defined- off one train on to the other and 3 minutes later off we went towards Brig, where the switch to the Zermatt train was to take place. Then we hit the last stop before Brig. And waited. The normal little message comes on to say the train is waiting for the train coming to clear the track. Then we wait some more. Then a message saying there is a problem and say they'll get back with more details soon. The other train finally goes by, and we wait some more. Then we start, and I look look at the clock- I had an 18 minute window in Birg- nope, missed it by 3. Therefore, when I got off the train, it was a 53 minute wait. So, I decided to use my time wisely. Popped over to the bahnhoff and picked up a curry chicken sandwich, then over to the Post to mail my postcards, when I came back out, there was the next train waiting in the station. Hopped on it, and completed the trip into Zermatt.

One point about the trip - this is the same track the "Glacier Express" runs on, and I could have waited and opted for that train, but it would have cost me a additional CHF 33 - instead of rolling by each station, we stopped. Instead of having a panorama car, I had a fairly empty car and the ability to choose my seat. I think I made the right choice, even if it meant I had an unexpected stop!

 

 

 

 

 

Anyway, into Zermatt at 4ish, headed up to the hotel - Le Petit Hotel- a triangular shaped place that really has used ever nook and cranny. Got things dropped off, loaded yesterday's blog, looked up a laundry place, had my map from the reception and went for a wander. From the train station here, was more concerned with directions so wasn't looking up, but as soon as I did, I couldn't miss it. As it is quite warm (today said 28), and sunny, the mountain was showing off. I made it to the grocery store to pick up sausage and cheese for tomorrow's lunch before it closed.

Signpost about hikes and signage

After wandering back towards the hotel, I heard Swiss horns - I knew what they sounded like from the conference beer garden- and following the sound, found they were in the school plaza just next to the hotel! Listened to the last gentleman finish his song, and how the horns were disassembled before wandering to where the gondola is to orient myself for tomorrow morning, and then headed back to the Kirchplatz and decided to have dinner there.

I don't have any photos, but I would call it the first Swiss meal I've had. Didn't quite understand all the items on the menu, so whenI asked the waitress what one was, and she explained by pointing to something that a guy was having off in the corner, I went with that. Turns out it was called a Kaeseschnitte - think open-faced grilled ham and raclette sandwich, with pearl onions, a gherkin, tomato slices and an egg baked into the cheese. Quite good. Then, as the whole time I was eating I was staring at the sign so I had to try it, an 'Afpel strudel mit rhum aund vanila sauc' - warm, custard like sauce with chocolate, cinnamon and a flaky strudel. As i've eaten from the store and at the conference, I've not spent a huge amount on food, it was still under $40, what you'd pay elsewhere for a good meal - this included a beer and a coffee.

Noted it stayed light until 9, so I've got the timing for tomorrow. Headed in, wrote this and will hit the sack so I can see the sights tomorrow!

 

Davos, June 15

Last day of the conference! Started out partially sunny, stayed that way through the day.

I went and wandered the main drag of the town, something I had yet to do before today. This is the Rathaus - the big clock tower on the other side does ring out the time! The afternoon was a pleasant one, and I wandered around the shops - most closed as it is a Saturday afternoon, or closed as it was the lunch time (I.e. closed from 12:30 to 13:30!). Many of them I wouldn't be shopping in anyway - walking by windows which have watches for CHF 1500 at the low end doesn't make me want to go wander in!

the last thing I want to find that I haven't yet is the post office for stamps! Apparently they closed today at 11, so by the time I asked, it was already far too late to get a stamp or two. I will give it a try at one of the large hotels, as that is what one of the conference staffers recommended.

 

Bellinzona, June 16

Left Davos on time, headed for Filster, then towards Chur on the train, getting off at Thusis to catch the Post Bus towards Bellinzona- arrived right on time, and the hotel was actually right at the train station, so I dropped the bags off, and headed out to see the castles!

The first one is Castlegrande- right in the old downtown. A steep walk up through very narrow street - definitely pedestrian only. You can climb to the top of the tower, with access to it and the high wall from the first tower. In the last remaining building in the inner bailey, there is a museum on the historic aspects of the castle and the area. It also contains a resturant and a terrace, where I stopped for a drink. It was starting to get warm! I then headed out on the section of the "murano" - the remains of the castle wall - as it headed toward the river, and returned using the inner section of the wall, underground. After, I headed down to the town then started up to the second castle.

These castles were initially built and fortified by the Dukes of Milan - understandable as this is the area where the routes to and through the alps all converge.

 

 

 

 

The view down to Castlegrande from Montebello

Again, a narrow, steep walkway. However, this one then ends up running along the wall, and you come into the inner bailey of the castle, crossing the rail lines without even realizing it.

The museum in the inner castle here consists of archaeological finds from the region - quartz and stone flints, copper metalwork of all sorts such as pins, belt buckles, and decorations, along with pottery.

 

 

 

Montebello from above

The next castle up is the the highest of the lot, the last one built, and the fastest built - it only took about 6 months to construct. The castle bailey here contained a little restaurant, and the museum was one of a modern sort- it contained a pictorial story of a guy's 9-month hike along the "Amber Road" running from Austria to St. Petersburg. The photos were interesting, though the explanation of what the amber road was/the historic part of the route was definitely lacking.

 

 

 

Of course, by this time, I'm hot and sweaty as i've climbed to the top castle - but looking out, there are houses still far further up the hill - amazingly high up.

Then the walk down the hill, back to the hotel for a shower, clean up and went to the resturant for a drink. Figured out my timing for the trip to Zermatt, and went to sleep!

 

Davos, June 13

Today started with a repeat of yesterday's breakfast - including another kiwi. We had a set of two rounds of talks, then broke for a sack lunch and a free afternoon. I choose to do the "medium" hike - the 10 K, up and down, but mainly down. It was a railway to the top of the hill, at a pretty extreme grade.

The trails are extreemely well marked, and need to be because of the number that wander in and out all along the route. Our route was S. to Frauenkirch. Most of the hills are ski hills in the winter time - and in fact at one or two places the remains of last winter's snow was clinging to the ground. The view of the valley is quite spectacular, and there was still a lot of snow melt running down the hill.

About halfway along the route, there is a great view down into the valley so you can see back towards the north-east and see the town of Davos, and the lake at the far east end of the valley. According to the topographical map, this is at about 2000 m in elevation.

 

Our goal - the Frauenkirch. This is actually from below, as the trail dosen't take you directly to it. The main goal was the bus stop across the street which allowed return to the town without having to walk! Made the round trip easier, as I took it all the way back to the road where the hotel is located.

just before this, there was a farm where the cows were out grazing, wearing those bells! You could hear them well before you could see them, but unfortunately no photo due to lack of a good shot.

As mentioned previously, I pass a farm heading to the hotel, and so can at least show the Swiss cow, even though these ones aren't wearing the bells. After a rest in the room, headed back for the evening session, the Keynote speaker being Tom Cech. Off to sleep now, as there's another whole round tomorrow.

 

Davos, June 12

First full day of the conference, and first breakfast at the hotel- had a bag delivered to the door this morning promptly at 7:30' with 1/2 L milk, a bag of ground coffe and one filter, a little bag filled with 3 fresh rolls, all different from one another, 2 little jam jars and butter pats, and a kiwi. The coffe was great - with the coffee maker I actually had enough to have a cup, then fill my tumbler - more than I can say I've gotten anywhere else. The kiwi was also the only fruit I saw all day. However, we did see some greens at dinner since they had lettuce, a carrot slaw and another slaw that I think was like a turnip, but am not sure - I have to ask HJ tomorrow if he can tell me.

Most of the day was filled with talks, and my poster was this evening - ended up chatting with about 5 people, but spent 2 hrs doing so. In fact, Lora Leigh, I even had Marit Nielsen-Hamilton stop by for a chat! As well though, think a good connection was made with a post-doc from Seattle who I will hopefully be hearing from after the meeting. Headed back to the hotel at 10:15, and note as I'm writing this that I'm down to 4% battery so think I'll go plug in. Tomorrow afternoon is a planned hike, so hopefully I'll have some good pictures to show.

Davos, June 11

Started this morning checking out of the hotel and heading over to the hauptbahnhoff (train station) where I dropped my bags into a locker. I then went to the Landsmuseum across the street - this is a Swiss National museum that covers the history of Switzerland. There was a really cool tin sioldier set up, she's cribbing a key siege of a town with over 40000 soldiers, a series on the changin 'living room' ; some from medieval times to ones representing the decades since the turn of the 1900's.

After, I headed over to the train to catch the IC towards Chur. It was easy to tell the numbers headed to the conference, as first they were the ones carrying the poster tubes, then we were the ones all headed 'en masse' from the train in Landauart to the. Connecting train to Kosters, then to the bus to Davos (since the train tracks under construction). They seemed to be ready nor the numbers as there were three busses waiting. No problems checking in, though rain came down all afternoon.

Checked in to the conference, and headed to the first session with no time to spare. Posted my poster at the coffee session, so am set to go for tomorrow afternoon. Dinner was in a beer garden, where we were greeted with the Swiss horns playing as we headed into the tent. Bratwurst, cheese and meat for sinner - little fruit or vegetable in sight - in fact one guy said he grabbed the garnish just so he could have some greens...

20 min walk back to the hotel, then recharge for tomorrow!

 

Zurich, June 10

Started this morning heading out to Rhinefalls,since it was raining figured might as well see something that might get me wet. It was about 1:15 to the train station in Neuhaus am Rhinefalls, which is on the north side of the Rhine. About a 1.5 km walk right next to the Rhine takes you down to the falls - and with any large falls you hear it well before you see it. The area is in the midst of a very wet spring (see flooding news in Germany), so the falls have twice as much water as they normally do heading over it. Thanks to Heather from Arizona, I am actually in this photo!

After the little boat trip by the foot of the falls, walked back up to the top, crossed the rail bridge to the south side and Schloss Laufen. A little museum about the history of the castle, a bit jumbled as it went by impressions and views from diaries, so there was no linearity to it. However, each chair was representative of an era, and had information as to who would have used that chair type, which I found more interesting. Walked down the point for the view from the south side - a much closer viewpoint! The noise and volume of water is huge. An elevator ride back up to the castle (included in ticket!) and I walked along the south side of the river back to the bridge at the rail station. This side is more of a hiking/mountain biking trail, and due to the way the river curves is a 2 km trek back.

Headed back to Zurich with the intent of seeing the Swiss National Museum, but since it's actually closed on Mondays, have put that off to do tomorrow morning before getting on the train to go to Davos - good thing it's tight next to the train station. So, instead I stopped at the Coop grocery and got sunscreen and a yogurt - took the tram back down to the lake, had a snack,at the lakeshore. Since I don't think you should eat two day old bread in Europe, I fed the remainder of the rolls to the swans- they were pretty aggressive when feeding, but also were intelligent enough they knew when I had no more!

After, took the tram #6 from one end to the other - Bahnhof Enge to the Zoo. Went from the edge of the lake to the top of the opposite hill by the University and Hospital complex. Actually a really good way to see a bunch of different neighborhoods. Did not go to the zoo itself (cost and it was closing within an hour), but it turns out the FIFA world headquarters are right there- soi walked down to the gates, looked at the fields and headed back, to reverse the journey.

 

Zurich June 9, 2013

Started off with a really nice breakfast - fresh bread, meats, cheeses, yogurt, muslei, coffee - and only noted on the way out I could have made myself a boiled egg! Something to look forward to tomorrow. Rained heavily overnight, today looked like more rain in the forecast - luckily, only had one short sprinkle- I guess just having the rain coat pulled out and put on was enough to prevent the full on shower.

Went down to Rapperswill-Jona, about 35 minutes by train, south of Zurich to see an old schloss (castle), which I saw from the plane window as we were arriving. The castle has been occupied as a Polish museum of one form or another for about 100 years. Surrounded on 3 sides by the lake, perched on a hill, with 2 churches right next to it. as well, there is a wooden walking bridge which crosses the lake here - been a crossing on the lake here since the 1500's by my reading. You can tell it was a toll bridge by the toll booth perched about 50 yards in from the west side. The walk to Hurden takes about 30 minutes, you see a lot of water fowl.

To head back, I took the ferry - a 2 hr trip along the lake, which stops at most of the towns along the lake shore. A lovely different view of the towns. Once back, headed for the Fraumeister, the church I couldn't go in yesterday as there was a wedding. This church has 5 windows designed by Marc Chagal - they are very lovely. As I just had a yogurt for lunch, I picked up bread and cheese and salami and am sitting in the courtyard in front of the Grossmunster, someplace around here ( I can't tell exactly where), has a violin playing.

With rain predicted, I neglected sunscreen. Mistake as I now have a sunburn after the last two days!

 

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Zurich June 7, 2013

Swiss bells at airport

 

Started the trip at 4:45 am Friday with a cab ride to the airport, landed in Zurich at 7:45 am (all times local!) after getting a good view of the alps. After grabbing bag, headed over to the main terminal, got my sim card from Swisscom, popped it in and got connected. Then, downstairs to grab the SwissPass and off I went - headed to the hotel to drop the bulk of the bags, and was in the main core by 11. Spent the next hours walking the central core, and people watching.

View from the church spire

Did climb the Grossmunster Church spire for a view - and by the time I headed back down the steps, there was a choir practice that had started, so sat and listened for a while. Violins and voices in an acousticly great space. Lots of people out for their Saturday afternoon shop/stroll. Weather was blue sky and warm - and having left rain, was well appreciated. Headed back to the hotel and officially checked in at about 4. Ended up trying out the bend with an impromptu nap. Had picked up salami, cheese and roll at grocery for lunch, so finished that off as dinner.

 

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