September 8 - St. Anthony, NL

Odometer -24660

Sorry we are behind, but we have Wi-Fi tonight, so are playing catch-up. We left Bonavista on Tuesday morning, and headed for Elliston, a small fishing village where we had been told we would be able to see more puffins, and assorted birds. It was true- only about a kilometer's walk, but a spectacular view of cliffs, the North Atlantic, and the birds. Afterwards, We headed for the Trans-Canada Highway (TCH) and Gander. Hit our first full day of rain as we we going south - and did it rain. So, we decided on a dinner theater, and oil change in the AM.

Theater was a series of skits based on a recurring Gander character and the meal was entirely Newfoundland fare. Hard rolls with molasses, fish and brewis, pea soup and blueberry grunt. Still raining.

Wednesday morning, had an appointment at a small recommended garage, and got our oil changed. As it had been 4000 miles, she was due. They told us we had a hole in the muffler, but that would just make her loud, not effect performance. Having travelled on so many back roads the TCH even though 2 lanes, is still highway driving and Mom says is an engineering marvel.

Leaving Gander, we headed on up to Twillingate, where we were told icebergs could be found. And, there they were, on both sides of the island, which we were easily able to see from the Long Point Lighthouse. We also visited the Auk Winery, where they use local berries and icebergs in making their wine. Leaving Twillingate, we headed for Grand Falls-Windsor, and viewed the salmon at the fish ladders, saw the falls and the electrical plant. Pulled in at Stony Brook for the night. The rain mostly stopped, but there was neither wi-Fi nor cell service at the location.

This morning we decided to head for the furthest point, and that way we can make our way slowly down the full west coast from St Anthony to Port aux Basque over the next week. Spent the day driving, stopping only to get gas and coffee with a brief stop on our way through Gros Morne National Park for information on the way back south. Windy, rainy, road very close to the shore all day long. Made it to St. Anthony about 5 PM, and are treating ourselves to a B&B. Had dinner out, a platter of all NL fish for- quite good, filling, and even partridgeberry pie for desert. The B&B has wi-fi so are catching up and charging batteries. Thanks for keeping up with our blog.

September 6 - Gander, NL

Odometer -24070.0

In Gander, went to a show so it is late. We will update post in am.

September 5 - Bonavista, NL

Odometer- 23877.3

Left From Pippy Park, the center of St. John's about 9 AM and headed northeast to the Bonavista peninsula. Stopped in Trinity, the site of an old Irish fishing village, with a beautiful cove, and current population of about 350. It also has the oldest standing wooden church, and many homes restored to their 1700's appearance- even some cows and goats.

Up and around inslets, we arrived at the town of Bonavista and continued to John Cabot's arrival in North America, dated 1497, and site of a currently operational lighthouse. On leaving, we stopped at Dungeon Provincial Park, where sea caves are forming from erosion by the sea of sandstone from around bedrock. We continued down the peninsula and are staying about 14 KM at a lovely campground on Bonavista Bay.

We drove on the Trans-Canada highway for about 100 KM, and that road is smooths and well maintained, unfortunately we are taking small roads into coves that are two lane and gravel.

We had fog and mist until about 11AM- worst fog we have seen in years- but it lifted and we had a sunny, but windy, afternoon. It actually got to 24oC today. We hear rain is on the way. The temp is dropping 10-15oC from day to night, and is dark at about 8 PM, so to bed early and up early- night!
(still no wi-fi so no pictures yet!)

September 4 - St. John's, NL

Odometer - 23666.8

Arose to a cooler day, and headed south back down the most easterly coast to Bulls Bay. We did a 2-hour boat tour from the bay to a group of 4 islands that make up the Witless Bay Ecological Reserve. There we watched puffins nesting, flying and diving for food. Big bodies, little wings and not very graceful in the air. Went a little further out to see and saw some Minke whales (the smallest of the baleen whale family). Some were sea sick, but not us. Returned to dry land, and subsequently stopped at a recommended store where they sold bottled moose meat (homestyle), stewed rabbit and seal meat. You could also get flipper pie take-out. We did not partake. We have found grocery stores well stoked and prices comparable.

Returning to St. John's we stopped at "The Rooms" museum/art gallery, which was built in 2005, and spent about two hours. We both liked the black and white photos of the first nation's people taken in 1959. The Rooms is on a hill facing the harbor so there are spectacular views. Returning to the campsite, Pippy Park, we walked around the lake which is behind Memorial University. Tomorrow we head to the Bonavista Peninsula, the tip of which is where John Cabot first landed. We hope to see our first icebergs.

September 3 - St. John's, NL

Odometer - 23622.8 (van didn't move)

Rose early to an un-forecasted sunny day. Decided to see the city of St. John's by foot. Took the local bus to the corner of Military and King's Bridge, the closest bus stop to Signal Hill. Found a great coffee shop and the smell drew us in. walked up, up, up Signal Hill road, which first led to the Johnson Geo Center, up, up, up again to Signal Hill National Historic site, 183 m above the harbor. Cabot Tower at the top was built for Queen Victoria's diamond jubilee, and where Marconi received the first trans-Atlantic wireless message - the letter "S".

Shopped our way down Water Street, and back up the hill to the Basilica of St. John the Baptist. We went to The Rooms- the provincial gallery, museum and archives, but decided to leave it until Monday as it was closing, and we would have less than the recommended time to view the exhibits and didn't want to rush. Bus back to Pippy Park, a large park donated to the city to integrate the city with nature where the van was located for the day. All mileage was by foot.

Tomorrow, puffins!

September 2 - St. John's, NL

Odometer - 23622.8

Started early, and drove to Cape St. Mary's ecological center- fortunately it was open when we got there. A little foggy, but we walked 1.4km to cliffside viewing point for Bird Rock. This time of year, the only birds left are gannets, but there were 24000 of them. We watched for a while and hiked back to the center. They have an excellent exhibit set in the center on the birds of the region. We continued around the Avalon peninsula, the center of which is a reserve, where caribou can be spotted (but we didn't). We then went by Trepassey, Amelia Earhart's departure point on her trans-atlantic flight, and visiting the Mistaken Point Ecological Reserve/Cape Race information center.

At Witless Bay, we decided to try our luck at Pippy Point, the campground that is in the center of St. John's. We are lucky to spend the labour day weekend here and we will be visiting the Witless Point Ecological Reserve before we leave, but tomorrow we are going to walk the streets of St. John's. We are taking the local metro into town and have our walking schedule planned.

It is cool, and getting dark much earlier. We may need a brake job by the time we leave Newfoundland.

(photos tomorrow when the wireless will be working, so we've been told)

September 1 - St. Brides, NL

Odometer-
23331

Arrived Argentia on schedule - calm seas all the way. Andrea upgraded us to a deluxe cabin, so we were well rested. We also treated ourselves to a fine brunch on the ship. We were among the first off the ship and we headed to Cape St. Mary's. The drive was spectacular- up and down hills, in and out of coves, with high stone cliffs. Lida was glad Andrea is driving. some of the most beautiful rugged scenery we have ever seen. We found a campground just before the turnoff to the cape. Parked for the night, did have a clear evening, but no services (including cell phone).