Florence, June 21-22

Dropped off at the airport with time to spare - the nieces, Harley and Mom headed off to K-country. Checked in, dropped the bag and all looked like it was going well. By the time I. Got to the gate, there was a 45-minute delay as the flight in was late....

Since I had a decent amount of time for the plane change originally, I just had the wait before Toronto instead is after. In Toronto, it looked like there was a huge throng of people and the plane would packed. Instead, it was quite empty - first time in years that I had a whole row to myself. Slept until the plane landed in Frankfort. Headed through customs with the new passport, and to the gate just in time to catch the next flight. That one was to catch a bus and head out onto the tarmac - out to a line of planes where we all go to climb the stairs to the jet.

Landed in Florence with no issues, except I had misplaced the name of the hotel (I had the reservation number, but not the name!) so had to hook up to the net and find the email. Then had to wait 30 min as I had just missed the prior bus to downtown. Walked to the hotel, and checked in - room was exactly as pictured.

Even though it was still early, hit the sack as still tired from the time change.

 

Mürren, June 20

Today ended up being overcast and rainy from the start - so I decided to push going to the top of the mountain railway until tomorrow. The good news was that the gondola to the rail station was back up and running between Lauterbrunnen and Mürren- so thingswere faster heading down hill. I started in the town of Lauterbrunnen, walking up the valley. The first falls are just outside of the town, Staubbach Falls - there is a trail that takes you right up to the edge between valley and the rock wall - then stairs and a carved section that takes you right behind the falls. The wind made sure that any one heading up had to have rain gear or they were soaked. Good thing I had my jacket!

After heading back down, continued up the alley to Spishbach Falls - these are noted for a 1889 landslide which buried a farm and shifted their stream by 100 m, then to Buchenbach Falls. These ones were noted as the sometimes do give an ice falls in the winter, but also because apparently is has a good topography for base jumping - easy access because of the train access above, a knoll at the edge, yet still high enough for the chutes. Now a bit further up, and the opposite side of the stream - the large falls from the Eiger and Jungfrau.

Trümmelbach Falls, a series of 10 drops that has a huge catchment flowing through a narrow crevasse. They have dug a tunnel for an elevator that takes you 3/4 of the way up, with stairs andplatformnviewing along the way. I waited to the top before photos so all of my photos are in order of the 10 falls. Talk about natural air-conditioning - the water is cold, so as soon as you walk into the crevasse, it drops about 10 degrees with the moisture in the air. The last falls corkscrew due to the way the rock has been worn. Caught the bus back to Lauterbrunnen, along without about everyone else - no room left after everyone got on.

At Lauterbrunnen, I caught the train up the other Berner valley to Grindelwald. A much bigger town than I had expected, with a big hole right in the center of town where they are building a big new parking garage and shopping center. This town is not car free. The view of the glacier and high valley fields was nice- and got a bit of information about the valley as a UNESCO site. By this time, it had started to rain and really blow - hard enough resturants and businesses were picking up their plants and table cloths.

With that, I headed back to the Guesthouse in Mürren. The timing ended up being perfect to catch a double rainbow looking back down into the valley - the photo is only of the single variety as it came about better than the double one - but something good from the rain! Headed down for dinner - a great Swiss-style salad (butter lettuce, with white dressing, their cold spiced corn, beets, tuna salad, pickled cucumber), then chicken and mushrooms in sauce with Swiss hash browns, and then pot du crème and warm berry sauce for dessert. The choice of adding dinner I think was a good risk.

Tomorrow the last day with sight seeing, then heading back yo Zurich! Once I'm headed that way the cell connection should be strong enough to upload and add the photos.

 

Mürren, June 19

Left Zermatt on the 9:39 train. Knew it was time t to be getting up and going listening to all the kids run and play in the schoolyard before heading down to breakfast. Had no problems getting packed up, but then had the gentleman behind the desk running after me as I had left my Tilley sitting on the counter. Glad he did as I needed the hat today.

Chatted with a family from northern Minnesota who were all wearing packs, and spending a month in Europe, then had a mom with 2 little boys join me at my seat of four about half way down the valley - the oldest boy was about 3, and he chatted happily to either me or himself, I'm not sure- we both understood 'wasserfälle' and 'ein gleis, nein! Zwei gleis' - and smiles. He was chatting as his mom was busily disciplining the younger boy for putting his shoes on the seat and on her - she let him sulk on the floor, and as she had said something about his shoes, the first thing he did upon hitting the floor was to remove said shoes. All the adults sitting around got a big smile out of that one (but no comments were made to discourage the same behavior!).

I realized as I was headed on the train towards Spiez on Lake Thun, one of the two that bounds Interlaken that I could do as I did in Zurich - so I headed towards the ferry terminal, and doing so go to see a bit of that town - and another Schloss. It added about 1 hr to the trip, but well worth it to see something besides the train. The road constructed aong the shore was quite interesting to see.

 

In Interlaken, I headed towards the laundromat ( and yes Mom, I know when I emailed I meant to do this in Zermatt, but the place was closed until the 22nd, just like some of the other businesses).

Total of 1 CHF for soap, 6 CHF for the washer, and 3 CHF for the dryer. When I got there, a mom from Utah was doing their laundry - and had 4 suitcases of laundry they had been getting through, and she had the two big dryers going the whole time I was there.

They were a family of 5- and right as she had started getting the darks from one dryer, she found chocolate....one of her boys had put a breakfast packet of Nutella in his pocket. It made it though most of the cycle, but once the temperature hit the right level, the seal burst and got all over the cleaned clothes. I finished my drying as the mom was waiting for the load she had to put back in to finish from the washing machine.

Then headed to Interlaken Ost train station for the last bit up to Mürren, taking the 1.5 km route along the little river, the path labeled as the 'wanderweg'. Lots of people out sun bathing and putting their feet in the water - it was another warm, sunny afternoon. Got on the train, knowing I had to change in Lauterbrunner to take the last cog wheel train up - but when I tried to open the door after having taken the tunnel, the door wouldn't open.... Couldn't figure it out, until I went up the first track and walked over tot e door that you saw a sign "train out of order" luckily, as I had taken the PostAuto busses before, I recognized the one sitting there, and then took the bus up to Stechelberg, where the gondola was. Ended up on the opposite side of town from the train station and the hotel, but gave a nice walk.

Checked in to the room - the photo on the right is the view from the balcony attached to the room - took a quick break, and headed downstairs for dinner. This place offed a half-board if closed at the time of booking - and for what I've now paid elsewhere is actually a decent deal - I had lentil soup and bread, then roast beef with mashed potatoes and vegetables, and creme brûlée for dessert. Will head for the "Top of Europe" tomorrow!

Note - the blog is not liking the photos - I will try again after a stronger connection....

And I spoke too soon - I was finishing dinner just as I posted tis when the hotel manager stopped by the table an said the town was putting on a free "folksnight" - brass band, Swiss dancers, swiss yodlers, and Swiss horns.

 

 

Zermatt, June 18

Started the day with breakfast, then fooled the advice of the hotel clerk - do the Matterhorn Glacier paradise (Gondola) then do the Gornergot Railway. She recommended this as the railway runs longer. I'm glad I took her advice, as in the morning, as you can see it was blue skies. I wasn't the first one on the gondola, but was on the first large cable car up to the Klien Matterhorn, where it terminates. The viewing platform is a lift ride up from there (stairs still closed)

You go from the viewing platform, if you've paid for that ticket, to the Glacier part - you go a story don into the glacier where there is a natural fissure, as well as a bored out tunnel system - not warm, abut the result of people visiting and the moisture from their breath I found cool. They also spenttime carving. There is a panoramic window at another point to let you see an adjoining peak and glacier.

I then headed down, visiting two stops long the way for the views, walked back through town and headed up to the Gonnergot railway. Full trip up, and back, is not cheap, but the rail pass got me half price on this system. Ate lunch at the top, with a full 360oC view.

The clouds rolled through all afternoon, which is why I was glad for this scheduling, as the view from the opposite side would have been lost. Back down, where I had planned on a hike, but the only trail was closed. There is still a lot of snow.

Even with the number of people i've seen, the town is light on tourists - from the number of signs i've seen, their real summer dosen't begin until Saturday - as the big hotel next to the church stated in their posting.

 

 

 

I headed back and chilled on the roof terrace, where you can see the Matterhorn just through the clouds. Organized myself to head to Mürren tomorrow!

 

Zermatt, June 17

The Matterhorn!

Left Bellinzona right on time, heading back north up the same initial valley I took the bus in,mbut at the head of the valley, he train took the north-western route. Pretty views, few people on the train, an an enjotable ride. First exchange in Göttenshen went exactly as defined- off one train on to the other and 3 minutes later off we went towards Brig, where the switch to the Zermatt train was to take place. Then we hit the last stop before Brig. And waited. The normal little message comes on to say the train is waiting for the train coming to clear the track. Then we wait some more. Then a message saying there is a problem and say they'll get back with more details soon. The other train finally goes by, and we wait some more. Then we start, and I look look at the clock- I had an 18 minute window in Birg- nope, missed it by 3. Therefore, when I got off the train, it was a 53 minute wait. So, I decided to use my time wisely. Popped over to the bahnhoff and picked up a curry chicken sandwich, then over to the Post to mail my postcards, when I came back out, there was the next train waiting in the station. Hopped on it, and completed the trip into Zermatt.

One point about the trip - this is the same track the "Glacier Express" runs on, and I could have waited and opted for that train, but it would have cost me a additional CHF 33 - instead of rolling by each station, we stopped. Instead of having a panorama car, I had a fairly empty car and the ability to choose my seat. I think I made the right choice, even if it meant I had an unexpected stop!

 

 

 

 

 

Anyway, into Zermatt at 4ish, headed up to the hotel - Le Petit Hotel- a triangular shaped place that really has used ever nook and cranny. Got things dropped off, loaded yesterday's blog, looked up a laundry place, had my map from the reception and went for a wander. From the train station here, was more concerned with directions so wasn't looking up, but as soon as I did, I couldn't miss it. As it is quite warm (today said 28), and sunny, the mountain was showing off. I made it to the grocery store to pick up sausage and cheese for tomorrow's lunch before it closed.

Signpost about hikes and signage

After wandering back towards the hotel, I heard Swiss horns - I knew what they sounded like from the conference beer garden- and following the sound, found they were in the school plaza just next to the hotel! Listened to the last gentleman finish his song, and how the horns were disassembled before wandering to where the gondola is to orient myself for tomorrow morning, and then headed back to the Kirchplatz and decided to have dinner there.

I don't have any photos, but I would call it the first Swiss meal I've had. Didn't quite understand all the items on the menu, so whenI asked the waitress what one was, and she explained by pointing to something that a guy was having off in the corner, I went with that. Turns out it was called a Kaeseschnitte - think open-faced grilled ham and raclette sandwich, with pearl onions, a gherkin, tomato slices and an egg baked into the cheese. Quite good. Then, as the whole time I was eating I was staring at the sign so I had to try it, an 'Afpel strudel mit rhum aund vanila sauc' - warm, custard like sauce with chocolate, cinnamon and a flaky strudel. As i've eaten from the store and at the conference, I've not spent a huge amount on food, it was still under $40, what you'd pay elsewhere for a good meal - this included a beer and a coffee.

Noted it stayed light until 9, so I've got the timing for tomorrow. Headed in, wrote this and will hit the sack so I can see the sights tomorrow!

 

Davos, June 15

Last day of the conference! Started out partially sunny, stayed that way through the day.

I went and wandered the main drag of the town, something I had yet to do before today. This is the Rathaus - the big clock tower on the other side does ring out the time! The afternoon was a pleasant one, and I wandered around the shops - most closed as it is a Saturday afternoon, or closed as it was the lunch time (I.e. closed from 12:30 to 13:30!). Many of them I wouldn't be shopping in anyway - walking by windows which have watches for CHF 1500 at the low end doesn't make me want to go wander in!

the last thing I want to find that I haven't yet is the post office for stamps! Apparently they closed today at 11, so by the time I asked, it was already far too late to get a stamp or two. I will give it a try at one of the large hotels, as that is what one of the conference staffers recommended.

 

Bellinzona, June 16

Left Davos on time, headed for Filster, then towards Chur on the train, getting off at Thusis to catch the Post Bus towards Bellinzona- arrived right on time, and the hotel was actually right at the train station, so I dropped the bags off, and headed out to see the castles!

The first one is Castlegrande- right in the old downtown. A steep walk up through very narrow street - definitely pedestrian only. You can climb to the top of the tower, with access to it and the high wall from the first tower. In the last remaining building in the inner bailey, there is a museum on the historic aspects of the castle and the area. It also contains a resturant and a terrace, where I stopped for a drink. It was starting to get warm! I then headed out on the section of the "murano" - the remains of the castle wall - as it headed toward the river, and returned using the inner section of the wall, underground. After, I headed down to the town then started up to the second castle.

These castles were initially built and fortified by the Dukes of Milan - understandable as this is the area where the routes to and through the alps all converge.

 

 

 

 

The view down to Castlegrande from Montebello

Again, a narrow, steep walkway. However, this one then ends up running along the wall, and you come into the inner bailey of the castle, crossing the rail lines without even realizing it.

The museum in the inner castle here consists of archaeological finds from the region - quartz and stone flints, copper metalwork of all sorts such as pins, belt buckles, and decorations, along with pottery.

 

 

 

Montebello from above

The next castle up is the the highest of the lot, the last one built, and the fastest built - it only took about 6 months to construct. The castle bailey here contained a little restaurant, and the museum was one of a modern sort- it contained a pictorial story of a guy's 9-month hike along the "Amber Road" running from Austria to St. Petersburg. The photos were interesting, though the explanation of what the amber road was/the historic part of the route was definitely lacking.

 

 

 

Of course, by this time, I'm hot and sweaty as i've climbed to the top castle - but looking out, there are houses still far further up the hill - amazingly high up.

Then the walk down the hill, back to the hotel for a shower, clean up and went to the resturant for a drink. Figured out my timing for the trip to Zermatt, and went to sleep!